So on the liftmaster motor In the garage… What do the connections look like?
If you can short them there you have a chance. And if so, I would put a diode in line with the myq on the wall to isolate it from what your doing at the motor. Assuming that’s possible.
[quote=“jimpapa, post:21, topic:170458”]So on the liftmaster motor I the garage… What do the connections look like?
If you can short them there you have a chance. And if so, I would put a diode in line with the myq on the wall to isolate it from what your doing at the motor. Assuming that’s possible.[/quote]
Look at page 2. https://docs.google.com/viewer?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.liftmaster.com%2FCatalogResourcesV3%2Fen-us%2Fshared%2Ffiles%2Ftucmanuals%2F114A4004.pdf
If you short the terminals at the opener, it causes a voltage drop at the wall button. I am no electronic engineer, but even with a diode, think my statement is true.
This is why I think you have to short out the wall button for this to work.
I looked, I don’t see that. The diode would make it so the wall switch would not see the short.
If that was an option. But. I don’t know enough about this system to speculate. Page 2 did not give me enough info… The past that I would wonder about is the synchronization of the door controller and the door… If something else is controlling the door then … It seems it would mess that up.
So are you thinking to run a relay into the wall switch in parallel to the actual switch inside the wall controller?
[quote=“jimpapa, post:23, topic:170458”]I looked, I don’t see that. The diode would make it so the wall switch would not see the short.
If that was an option. But. I don’t know enough about this system to speculate. Page 2 did not give me enough info… The past that I would wonder about is the synchronization of the door controller and the door… If something else is controlling the door then … It seems it would mess that up.
So are you thinking to run a relay into the wall switch in parallel to the actual switch inside the wall controller?[/quote]
The MyQ wall button needs the constant voltage to keep the LCD clock and whatever else it is doing running. With a diode correctly installed, would a short at the opener keep the MyQ from the voltage drop? If not then the MyQ would see a voltage drop and need to be reset.
I want to hook up our RM10 relay to the MyQ button thus bypassing all of the Liftmaster MYQ problems. Our RM10 would then be able to be hooked up to a encrypted appliance module for Z-Wave control of the opener.
Status of the door would be sent with a Z-Wave status switch.
We are putting together a kit with all of these parts necessary to safely and securly connect your garage door to your Z-Wave controller.
@Jamr - As you’ve stated, using the “old style” close circuit activation method on these newer “smart” controllers is not recommended/supported. Yes, closing the circuit will activate the door, but it shorts out the wall controller causing the clock to lose time, at least, and can even cause other programmed features to be wiped or corrupted. When faced with an opener that utilizes one of these smart wall controllers, you should use one of the methods below.
Connect your relay to a wireless remote instead. It takes a little bit of soldering but it’s only two wires. A single remote can also be used for multiple doors.
Or wait a little bit and get a Linear Z-Wave garage door opener module.
What makes you say that? You referenced a working API. The same author even has a ruby implementation, with full door status and open/close.
This is entirely do-able. I’ve tested the raw gets, seems to work just fine.
The answer is in the electronics at the wall button, getting that voltage drop back to the opener without interrupting power to the LCD.
can you get a good photo of that little board?
[quote=“Z-Waver, post:25, topic:170458”]@Jamr - As you’ve stated, using the “old style” close circuit activation method on these newer “smart” controllers is not recommended/supported. Yes, closing the circuit will activate the door, but it shorts out the wall controller causing the clock to lose time, at least, and can even cause other programmed features to be wiped or corrupted. When faced with an opener that utilizes one of these smart wall controllers, you should use one of the methods below.
Connect your relay to a wireless remote instead. It takes a little bit of soldering but it’s only two wires. A single remote can also be used for multiple doors.
Or wait a little bit and get a Linear Z-Wave garage door opener module.[/quote]
Thanks for the info. I do like that new item from Linear, unfortunately, from what I have learned from Linear, it provides no door status to your controller.
As for you idea with the remote control, I am against using battery powered items (in this case the remote control) in my systems unless their is no alternative. So going to the wall button to trigger the opener seems much more simple than tearing apart soldering and then worrying about the batteries in a wireless remote control.
We do now have a kit available for Z-Wave Garage Door / Gate installations that provides a simple way to control and monitor the status of your doors or gates including garage doors.
http://www.007systems.com/home-control-kits.html
I am also working on instructions on how to install our kit into your MyQ wall button. It seems pretty straight forward and easy to do since the button terminals are pretty accessible.
The answer is in the electronics at the wall button, getting that voltage drop back to the opener without interrupting power to the LCD.
can you get a good photo of that little board?[/quote]
No I do not have a MyQ system to get images from. Maybe someone here can take some images of the back of theirs.
I did get some information from someone else that simply soldered some wires on the back of theirs from our RM10 and it worked fine, so I know it is possible.
What makes you say that? You referenced a working API. The same author even has a ruby implementation, with full door status and open/close.
This is entirely do-able. I’ve tested the raw gets, seems to work just fine.[/quote]
Do you have code you can share?
What credentials did you use to authenticate?
[quote=“Z-Waver, post:25, topic:170458”]@Jamr - As you’ve stated, using the “old style” close circuit activation method on these newer “smart” controllers is not recommended/supported. Yes, closing the circuit will activate the door, but it shorts out the wall controller causing the clock to lose time, at least, and can even cause other programmed features to be wiped or corrupted. When faced with an opener that utilizes one of these smart wall controllers, you should use one of the methods below.
Connect your relay to a wireless remote instead. It takes a little bit of soldering but it’s only two wires. A single remote can also be used for multiple doors.
Or wait a little bit and get a Linear Z-Wave garage door opener module.[/quote]
I did some snooping of the circuit in my wall switch. The circuit looks like a 32VDC voltage source with 700 ohm series impedance. Short circuit current is thus 5mA so I don’t believe there is any risk of damage to shorting these lines to cause a GDO open or close. I am sure this mode was grandfathered so newer GDOs could be used with old fashioned push buttons. You will experience and reset of the wall unit though if you short the lines with the newer wall unit installed. With this generation of wall unit a serial data stream is used to communicate open & closes and the various other functions supported in the control.
Diagram attached for those hardware inclined.
[quote=“Jamr, post:28, topic:170458”]We do now have a kit available for Z-Wave Garage Door / Gate installations that provides a simple way to control and monitor the status of your doors or gates including garage doors.
http://www.007systems.com/home-control-kits.html
I am also working on instructions on how to install our kit into your MyQ wall button. It seems pretty straight forward and easy to do since the button terminals are pretty accessible.[/quote]
Jamr, I have a LiftMaster MyQ GDO at home too and very much looking forward for a solution. I look forward to your instruction to see if the kit will fit my home setup. Thanks!
Since Chamberlain also seems to make the Craftsman units, that explains the issues I have trying to integrate that system.
My solution at this time is this $35 [url=http://www.staples.com/Ecolink-Wireless-Garage-Door-Tilt-Sensor-White/product_278640?externalize=certona]http://www.staples.com/Ecolink-Wireless-Garage-Door-Tilt-Sensor-White/product_278640?externalize=certona[/url] tilt sensor. It will tell Vera if the door is open or not and she will email me if it is open within a certain time frame. I can then use the Craftsman app or website to close the door remotely… (That one is UL certified I am sure as the wall panel scream loudly for about 10 seconds before closing the door.)
I would love to be able to automate it, but worry about liability with a DIY solution that does not adhere to the UL requirements.
you could (and probably should) put an IP camera in your garage, and be sure you don’t blindly close the door on something (e.g. if after 11:00pm and door is open then close door)
UL doesn’t regulate good common sense 
What makes you say that? You referenced a working API. The same author even has a ruby implementation, with full door status and open/close.
This is entirely do-able. I’ve tested the raw gets, seems to work just fine.[/quote]
Do you have code you can share?
What credentials did you use to authenticate?[/quote]
Did you look at the link? The code is there. You use your myliftmaster login to get a security token. Then use that security token to get status or execute actions.
I did but was unable to get it to work, was trying it in Visual Studio (C#) - what did you use? perhaps there’s hope for a plugin for vera 
I just used firefox.
https://myqexternal.myqdevice.com/Membership/ValidateUserWithCulture?appId={appId}&securityToken=null&username={username}&password={password}&culture={culture}That give you a security token, then you make the Userdevicedetails call to get your unit ID, then you can get your status. I didn’t go beyond that but it looks like the ruby code has all the other functions documented in it.
Excellent find, yakky. macrho - assuming you have some fundamental understanding of web services and basic OOP knowledge, you should be able to read through the ruby code on the github link and figure out the basics of what is happening. The main setup occurs in the lib/liftmaster_myq/system file including the swap of a username/password pair for a token as alluded to in the Usage section of the readme. The main action calls occur as HTTP PUTs as defined in the lib/liftmaster_myq/device/garage_door file.
I bought a couple of the retrofit kits to take care of my garage doors, so crossing my fingers there’s a plug in soon.
Was hoping I could add one to our gate as well–any thoughts on whether this would work? Seems like it should, but not obvious how to do it…
[quote=“tb001, post:39, topic:170458”]I bought a couple of the retrofit kits to take care of my garage doors, so crossing my fingers there’s a plug in soon.
Was hoping I could add one to our gate as well–any thoughts on whether this would work? Seems like it should, but not obvious how to do it…[/quote]
TB001 Tell me about your gate setup and what you want to accomplish.
BTW, we do now have a unboxing and installation video of the Ecolink tilt garage door sensor is anyone is interested.
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