If you are using the 3.3V out from the nano you should definitely lower the PA level. the MyConfig.h can be found from your MySensors arduino library folder (try RF24_PA_LOW or RF24_PA_MIN). The 3.3V output on the nano comes from the USB serial chip usually a FTDI chip but from the picture on MySensors forum it looks like your nano has a CH340G instead witch seems to have 80mA max on the 3.3V.
Another option is to use the 5v pin together with an external 3.3v regulator. How did you power the radio with the uno?
It was the wifi shield what was the problem ( caused me a very short night) .
I didn’t find how to edit the myconfig.h , although I found the file on codebender.cc ( which I use to upload sketches).
Anyway , I did have also several of the other wifi shields without the antenna , and tried that one, and immediate succes ;D
But now , since the arduino comes in a basement I really want the highest output with the external antenna. Would using this nano ( with the CH340G )with a 3.3v regulator from the 5v output be sufficient? Than I will order some of these regulators.
One more question regarding this line in the sketch #define CHILD_ID 10 // Id of the sensor child
When I have more servo’s ( on seperate arduino’s) , do I need to change the Child_ID to another number? or do I need to do anything else to have my vera not confused :
Looking at the schematic for the arduino nano http://arduino.cc/en/uploads/Main/ArduinoNano30Schematic.pdf you can see there is only a MBR0520 schottky diod between VUSB and +5V and this diode is rated at 500mA so it should be enough for the PA LNA radio and your nano.
Each Node is identified by the RADIO_ID and each sensor within the node is identified with the CHILD_ID so no you do not need to change it. If you want to have more then one servo (or some other sensor) atached to the same device, then you need to give them their own CHILD_ID.
If you use “gw.begin();” in your sketch the RADIO_ID will be automatically assigned to a unique number during inclusion so you do not need to worry about it.
I like to know the RADIO_ID of my devices so I use the following in my sketches but I have to make sure I do not assign the same ID to more then one device.
@ korttoma: again , many thanks for your help. It is all working now .
This evening I will buy some of these 5 to 3.3v thingies so I can use the “better” wifi shields" next week.
Thanks for the clairification of the sensor ID , I am not gonna change the sketches for the moment , it is all a bit of a mystery to me for thte moment , but so happy it is working !!! ;D
I had to make quite a bracket to hold the servo. Initially I had a standard 3 kg/cm servo , but it wasn’t enough to completely close the valve. I ended up using a big scale servo with 14 kg/cm on 7V. Offcourse the servo is powered by a seperate 7V, max 5A power supply ;D
Initially the plan was to attach the servo directly to the thermostat , at that time I didn’t know the themostat not only turns , but also moves in-and outwards …
Plan 2 was to use a timing belt system with 2 sprockets , also this didn’t work , because the servo pulled the thermostat towards it
Plan 3 finally worked , I routed out of trespa a bracket where the servo could go freely in and out , but not turn itself.
This trespa ( white) attached to the metal bracket. Now the servo can do it’s normal thing , turn the lever , but also move in and outward.
In short quite a project , but it is working now… just waiting for the setpdown regulator to attach the 'better"wifi shield.
