In wall charging advice needed

Community Playground General Discussions
#1

I would like to mount a tablet on a wall to run the Vera app for the family to access. I have a run a 240v power line to a recessed enclosure plastered into the wall.

What small USB charging options are available so I can keep the tablet constantly powered up.

Many thanks

#2

There are probably hundreds of chargers that will work, but we need to know how much space you have in the recessed enclosure, how much current your tablet requires, and if there is any ventilation in the enclosure.

#3

Check out these.

#4

Many thanks guys.

It’s a standard UK single switch enclosure X 45mm deep. There is no ventilation. The enclosure is galvanised mild steel.

#5

I used an old apple charger I had lying around. Removed the plug and used 90 degree usb en power lead to connect it. It’s a tight fit but works well. I don’t have any heat issues, after the tablet is charged it just tops it up when necessary so the charger barely gets warm.

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To mount the tablet itself I used magnetic adhesive pads, worked for me and it looks really nice, on the wall. To power the tablet (micro usb) I used a 90 degree connector so you can barely see any wires. Mine is powered from the bottom side just below the home button.

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Hope this helps! :slight_smile:

#6

Nice

I was going to do something similar with a no-name Android phone and wireless charging. Problem is it killed the battery.

Now I just use the remote controllers. Can’t remember what the bloody buttons do though! :smiley:
C

#7

I did at first test wireless charging with an after market mobile phone solution but it generated too much heat for my comfort. Ended up using only the micro usb connector from that set which is very small and perfect for what I ended up with.

It’s a very “wife proof solution” and the kids love it as well :smile:

#8

Thanks guys.

If I use an old charger, how do I remove the mains plug and get some fly leads coming out so I can wire it into the mains?

Thanks again.

#9

Carefully. If it’s a wall wart type it’s probably ultrasonically welded shut. If this is going to be ‘in wall’ proceed with care.

If your wall is a partition / stud then you could simply use a flying socket with wires connected to the mains and hide it in the stud gaps.

Bear in mind it’s likely to fail eventually and you probably want to be able to get to it.

C

#10

Perhaps I’ll try a craft knife and screwdriver to open it. I need to get rid of the UK mains socket pins. I assume I can cut and drill them off and use the holes to wire in mains wiring?

#11

I’d use a dremel type mini tool if it were me. Hacksaw as well perhaps. They tend to be pretty well sealed.

Overkill, perhaps, but much simpler:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Charger-RAVPower-4-Port-Desktop-iSmart-Black/dp/B00GX3BKKW/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=USB+PSU&qid=1566209448&rnid=1642204031&s=electronics&sr=1-1

C

#12

I have (previously, during construction) run a CAT 6 cable (right next the video doorbell). I used a USB right-angled ribbon cable for minimal impact (I’m using a Fire 7 HD table from Amazon, running Fully Kiosk and a custom-made web page to issue commands).
In the network rack, I simply connected the LAN cable to the other side of the USB cable. I have a plug connected to the wall charger, and I took it ON/OFF by schedule (3 hours off, 3 on), to simulate normal usage, prevent heating and increase battery performance. I decided to run a network cable because somewhere in the future I’m sure I’ll get a POE tablet (we have them at our offices to show meetings for the rooms and those are very cool), but I started this project just as a prototype, so 35 Eur for a tablet is a decent price to just play for some time.

I mainly use it to automatically trigger cams during certain events (door opened or external movement triggered) and it’s one of the things that my wife explicitly asked for. I didn’t side-loaded the Vera app, because the house is fully automated, so we just have a bunch of buttons to run scenes when the automation is not activated/needed.

#13

With this kind of apple charger the mains plug can be removed so they can customize it for local plug types. The basic charger without the socket plug looks something like this:

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Maybe this option is better for you:

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Just directly 240v powered with usb power output

#14

Figure of 8 lead in the apple charger. Good shout

C

#15

Figure of 8 would be a great solution with no destruction!

I like the idea of cycling the power to mimick actual use.