Roger will check the voltage and each bulb is 50 watts.
The voltage of the lamps not the wattage.
Right I’m just looking for some aligator clips for my multimeter, may need to make a run to the hardware store
Right so, the voltage for low setting doesnt even get a read on the multi meter, however its a full 120v on high.
So it will not work from that switch outputs.
Can you see the switch? is there a circuit board?
may be some photos.
It may be possible if there are wires from switch to circuit board.
Hey,
No circuit board just what looks to be a simple switch, light switch is on the one with three wires crimped to it on the left closest to the light.
I does just look like a simple switch. Can you attempt to see if you can get a voltage of the low side again, as i am not happy to say go ahead until 120v is confirmed. Take the reading from the switch to a neutral wire, you can remove a lamp to access neutral.
In the black heatshrink, would you be willing to remove the black, you could always put some heat shrink back on, or does it look like there may be a resistor in the heat shrink?
I opened the black heat wrap and lo and behold it contains a small resistor that is attached to the wire for the low setting. The resistor lies between the both blue wires that go directly to the light switch.
I will update the current wire diagram accordingly.
ok that looks like a diode, they are cutting half the sin wave to dim the lights. so when power comes from low it has to go through diode to get to lamp.
I am 99% sure that your wiring diagram will work. if you confirm 120v at low switch i will make it 100%
ps your standard mains voltage is 120v?
Yes the mains are 120V
Looking to see if the Enerwave module has dimming capability as that would allow me to carve out the diode.
would need a momentary switch for diming module to work well. You might be able to find one as radio shack that will replace the other switch, then a standard dimming insert would do an excellent job.
Thats’s it,
Awesome! Again I cant thank you enough.
Cheers,
Craw
Just one thing to manually start light you would have to set z-wave device to momentary switch, and to turn on flick form off to low and then back to off.
If you had z-wave in toggle switch mode things could get confused, when turning manually and turning off via vera.
Just checked manual and the switch does not support momentary switches.
So be carefull when switching manually and via vera.
Maybe look for another 2 channel insert that support momentary switching.
Noted, ill see what I can find. thanks much wouldnt want to short the lights.
I have been thinking again, and i think that a dimmer module, would be best. remove the relay and diode. Then manual switching could be from off to low or high and back to off, pausing at high or low for a brief time to set dim level. The beauty of this is you can have any dimming you want. And as you would have difficulties switching which ever method i think with a dimmer module there are less things to go wrong. My vote would be dimmer module.
I like the sound of it, however I would still like the rocker switch to maintain its original functionality (high/low/off), wondering if this could be achieved via Reactor somehow using a pulse count?
This seems like a good candidate:
https://aeotec.com/z-wave-light-dimmer-switch/