Fibaro RGBW Controller

in my remote or garrets app ? please post in the corresponding topic .
good idea btw, i’ll implement that in my remote.

Nobody doing anything for iOS that we know of? Will have to speak nicely to the Homewave dev I think :wink:

On another subject, I am planning wiring for my house refurb and wanted to get peoples advice on how best to set things up for LED lighting with the RGBW control. I am assuming its best not to have LED drivers “always on” with the RGBW at the other side, so I need to have switched AC power to the drivers and the RGBW at the other side. I want this to all be controlled by Z-wave. My thinking is, I have wall switches with a Fibaro dual relay module to switch 2 drivers per module (save trying to fit 2 dimmer modules in). I can then have scenes that can switch the power on and control the RGBW. Would this be a good way forward do you think?

Thanks

I’m a noob in electronics… but wouldn’t a voltage regulator fit the need for the inputs ?
something like the LM7810CT for instance… from what I understand, you can give it let’s say 12v and the max output will be 10v (kind of cutting the extra tension…)
if it works (I’m sure we have good electronicians here on the forum), we could plug our existing RF rgb controlers in the inputs of the Fibaro one…

mm both no
@borat the fibaro rgbw is out of power when switched off and not part of z-wave and this makes it to need extra time for it to respond and would give spikes on the fibaro rgbw when switched on. i think its better to use a switched powersupply like a laptop adapter.
@pvancald the rgbw can have just a potmeter to adjust input current for lightlevels. what you also can do is put a resistor between a normal rgbw controller so it outputs less voltage. but then you might as well leave the fibaro rgbw out of the picture as it is useless then.

[quote=“Da_JoJo, post:84, topic:175646”]mm both no
@borat the fibaro rgbw is out of power when switched off and not part of z-wave and this makes it to need extra time for it to respond and would give spikes on the fibaro rgbw when switched on. i think its better to use a switched powersupply like a laptop adapter.
@pvancald the rgbw can have just a potmeter to adjust input current for lightlevels. what you also can do is put a resistor between a normal rgbw controller so it outputs less voltage. but then you might as well leave the fibaro rgbw out of the picture as it is useless then.[/quote]

Hmm. The issue I have there is that this is for a bathroom installation and therefore I do not have mains sockets in the room. I would worry about leaving a power supply always on in the roof / floor space, so I guess this is probably not a good application of the controller.

If anyone who has one of these is an iOS user, our friend inveltr has offered to take a look at developing an interface to control this from Homewave. He has asked if someone could send him the user_data2 dump. I don’t yet have mine set up but when I do, will send this on if nobody gets there first.

It would be best to post as much information as possible on this forum for other developers to implement into their apps. For example, how does the colors get set for the controller? Does it have to be issued via a low level zwave command or is their an api available for it?

  • Garrett

I believe these all respond with UDP messages (for speed) on the LAN.

it has 1 main device and 5 child devices which have their own dimmer. see post here : http://forum.micasaverde.com/index.php/topic,15132.msg119654.html#msg119654
you can just set the dimlevels for rgb and it will give the desired color. if you need help with this im happy to assist :slight_smile:

Did I get this right:

The fibaro RGB Controller is only capable of controlling LED-Stripes which have a common + and not the ones with a common ground?

Maximum load at 12v is 144W? That is not a lot.

I am thinking about replacing 22 fluorescent tubes with a length of 1.5 meters each with RGBWW Stripes (RGB Warm White => LED Strip RGB-WW 5 m 300 x SMD PLCC 6 LED, 74.79 CHF). That would make a total of 66 meters of led stripe. For 5 meters I am expecting a load of about 75 watts, which results in a total load of 990 watts. Which would mean I need at least 7 fibaro rgb controllers. => Pufff, seems like an expensive idea.

@chixxi

I would use 24V strips which can handle longer lengths. You can also use a RGBW Amplifier … like this:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/LED-RGBW-4channel-amplifier-DC12-24V-input-6A-4channel-output/698205942.html

yup with the rgbw amplifiers you can control all the 66 meters from one fibaro controller :slight_smile:

Thanks for your feedback. I think I will be going with 3 fibaro controllers and some amplifiers like you proposed. Thanks for the idea!

By the way, there was a pretty bad calculation mistake: 1.5*22 = 33 Meters (and not 66) :-X But it’s a good thing, this cuts power usage and cost in half ;D

My message is also related to RGBW controller of Fibaro even if it is not used in its main operating mode…

For incompatibility reasons I am replacing my battery powered, wall-mounted Merten 506004 4-gang transmitters by Fibaro RGBW controller FGRGB-101 in combination with a small, 3W power supply (Recom RAC03-12SCR/277).

I have no problems controlling my lights in the same way as before. Each input of FGRGB-101 is connected to a low voltage, spring-return switch. The input functions are set in variable 14 to momentory (normal mode, value 9999h or 39321d). Associations set in “Device Options” menu of main fibaro device allows to switch the remote lights on and off or dims it up and down.

For controlling my blinds I want to use a single three-position, spring-return Up/Off/Down switch. In the old Merten configuration it was possible to set separate associations for up and down. So pressing the up-button moved all blinds up while pressing the down button only moves one blind down.

With the Fibaro configuration described above I can not distinguish between on and off. So the same button moves the blinds up and down which does not meet my requirements.

I fear that I can not use direct associations. Am I right?
Maybe I have to use luup programming instead?

Are there any ideas?

Thanks !

you could use a trigger for one of the up switch so when it turn on it triggers the scene that turns the other on.
or put all Up outputs on 1 output on the fibaro

Da_JoJo, thank you for your hints. But maybe I know UI of Vera not good enough to follow your ideas…

I want to use the RGBW controller not in its native function but as a remote for external devices. After switching to input function I have not got 4 extra sensor devices in the UI.

So the only method I have found to react on a specific input of RGBW controller is to set an association between the specific Group ID 1…4 of RGBW controller and a device. This is ok for my lights (on/off with same input) but not for my blinds (up and down with separate inputs).

All other ideas like notifications failed as I cannot not select the Group ID which is connected to the input but only the global Fibaro RGBW module. This is never triggered.

As associations are direct radio links between two devices it is not possible to install a “virtual device”, which can be associated to the inputs of RGBW controller. So my only remaining idea is to take two real, spare z-wave switches which are associated with inputs of RGBW controller and check its status periodically to start scenes blinds up and down. But this is like to take a sledgehammer to crack a nut.

I have included some screenshots for better understanding.

Please tell what I am missing and if there is a better solution.

hmm… well if you set parameter 14 to 2 byte dec 4369 it will have 6 dimmer-devices. you can use all separate then and also for notification and trigger.
if you want to control the output channels separatly for this blinds then you should not use the main and e1 device as this sets all dimmers at same time.
the inputs of the fibaro are then used with normal wall-switches to turn on and off or momentary (have to set other parameter 14 then)
having up and down turned on at same time will cause jamming or even fire in your blinds-motor.

I would only like to use the “W” output to control a bunch of LEDs to dim.

It works perfectly. But I also have “6” devices/dimmers and only need to use one.

Any tips/suggestion to lower that number without damaging the functionality for now and reversible for the future?

I want to accomplish ideally that I only have 1 device… visible…

You could just hide the devices. See this thread.

@Da_JoJo,

thank you very much for your hint:

Now I can setup scenes with on and off trigger from the same input. One scene will open my blinds by pressing key 1 (on or off) another will close it by pressing key 2 (on or off).

Before I had only looked at the main device of RGBW controller as here the direct associations of inputs to remote devices were setup. I had not seen a connection between the 4 dimming devices and the 4 inputs. It even works with parameter 14 set to 9999h / 39321d.

There is no problem with my blind-motors as these are controlled by Fibaro FGR221 which includes an electrical interlock to prevent both up and down powered simultanously.

Thanks again!